Thailand

On September 14, a new exhibition of work by Amorn Pinpimai was opened at artThailand’s Livin’ Gallery in Bangkok. Twenty new paintings, mostly oil on canvas, are featured. The exhibition will be open for viewing until October 14. Vivid and bold in the use of color, shape and form this new work of Amorn is, in our opinion, his best to date. Early indications suggest that the media, art buyers and the Thai art community agree.

Why not take a look at the full collection at blog.artthailand.net/gallery/index.php?level=collection&id=3

You will also find some fun pictures from the exhibition opening at the same address. I did edit out the more outrageous ones but I will be adding the after-party pictures soon and those I know are outrageous!

Born in 1968 in the north of Thailand, Amorn Pinpimai is now based in Bangkok working as a lecturer in the Department of Arts at Valaya Alongkorn Rajabhat University (and no, I can’t pronounce the name of the university either!).

Jovial, shy, yet at the same time larger than life, Amorn comes across as one of life’s nice people. He lacks ego, he is charmingly polite, you sense he is more comfortable in the calm and peace of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai than the hustle of Bangkok, and yet he paints with passion, vigor and verve.

He paints not just what he sees but what his imagination and emotion allow.

I can tell three rather amusing stories that kind of sum up Amorn’s attitude to life. First, I mentioned that he is really quite a shy man. Well, though I searched hard, out of 171 photographs taken at the exhibition opening yesterday, I failed to find a single one of him. Quite how he managed to keep himself away from the camera I don’t know. I am notoriously camera shy myself and yet found myself in over 20 pictures.

Second, if you look at the picture here on the right you can just about tell that it is painted on two canvases. I was intrigued so I asked him why. He said something like: “Oh Khun Adam, I woke up one morning and I had the idea for this painting. I knew I had to start it then or I would lose the thought. I searched all over my studio but I couldn’t find a canvas the right size. So I decided to use two canvases.” I love it! It is so classically and wonderfully Thai.

Interestingly, however, this picture seems to be the most generally admired of the whole collection even though it is not the artist’s personal favorite.

Third, you may notice that almost all of Amorn’s work features the female form. Convinced that there must be some dark, symbolic reason for this I once again asked him, why? The reply was fast, to the point and unemotional. “I prefer women to men.” Ok, well that’s clear. Guess I need to start looking for my symbolism somewhere else!

So let’s talk a little about his work and what he is trying to say to us. Most of Amorn’s earlier work has been using acrylic on canvas. This is his first major collection of oil paintings. Having started his career using blends of white, black and gray, he has gradually evolved to a much wider range of color, and I feel that oil has allowed him the freedom to be much bolder in his use of color. For me color is on of the most important parts of any painting. I love color blends and Amorn’s are some of the best I have seen in a while.

The title of the collection is “In the Dream”. It’s a theme that he has been exploring for a long time. On the one hand he tries to answer the question of what dreams say to us? On the other hand he believes that the interpretation of a dreams is less important than the sensation of the dreams themselves and the emotional response they induce in us.

As Amorn says himself: “What if we just listen the sounds that echo silently after the moment of a dream? What if we use our dreams as an invitation to enter a mysterious universe where answers and explanations are less important than the sensations themselves.“

Amorn does not look for answers or solutions. He compares his working process to a state of meditation in which his imagination and creation are aroused by quietly listening to the breath from his lungs and the beat of his heart.

Ok, but does this mean anything or is it nothing more or less than pseudo-babble? Well actually yes, it does mean something and something that is quite important.

What Amorn is trying to say is that it doesn’t matter what was in his mind when he created a work because each of us will interpret a piece of art according to our own interests, prejudices, desires, emotional state and so on. In this noisy society where art often suffers from too much meaning and analysis, we often forget that art, above all, creates space for reflection, contemplation and silence, almost as if we are observing a dream.

Some of you may know that I am very passionate about the work of Antoni Gaudi. I can’t really explain why except to say that his work heightens my senses, allows me to forget everything else around me and that it “speaks” to me. Does it matter that I can’t explain?

I say no and Amorn agrees. His point, again, is that the interpretation of a dream is less important than the sensation of that dream.

There is one technique he uses that explains the point very well. You will notice that he uses a number of very common figures and symbols, including the moon, snakes and birds. So I asked what do these symbols mean? His reply was interesting because he said, “I can’t tell you.” Well that didn’t help me much so I pressed the point. “Ok, Khun Adam, here is why I can’t tell you. You are English. You are Christian. For you the snake probably has association with the Garden of Eden, with original sin, with betrayal, deceit and mistrust. I am Thai. I am Buddhist. The snake has a very different meaning for me. The same is true of all the symbols. Our response to them depends on so many things….socio-economic circumstances, experience, attitude, culture. I could go on forever.“

So, unlikely though it may seem, here we have an artist brave enough to admit that what his work says depends on what you think it says, which further implies that whether you like it is up to you and not up to the art establishment to determine.

I like it! It’s a refreshing attitude. Too often I feel that we are told what we should like and treated like imbeciles if “we don’t get it”. I like the attitude but I also like the work. It’s rich in color. It makes me feel warm and comfortable. It’s a little mysterious. It’s soothing and calm.

Tags: art, contemporary, culture, lifestyle, thailandart, contemporary, culture, lifestyle, thailand

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Thailand was my first tourist destination outside Europe and North America. Based on the sage advice of my Thailand-experienced friends, I was sure that this paradise vacation would be carried out on ridiculous costs. However, back home, I have found out too late, that during my little Thailand adventure I have spent almost the same amount of money as one of my regular surges to Europe. If only I knew that carefully planning your trip to Thailand can manifest itself in huge savings. The following list includes some solid advice that can help those novice Thailand visitors to save significant amounts of cash and still enjoy their vacation:

1. Season choice. Traveling in Thailand Islands during the low season can save you up to 25% of the accommodation costs (up to 25$ per bungalow per night if you choose high standard - not luxury - accommodation). Similar to many other world locations that are based operate seasonally; there is a significant price fluctuation across seasons. Not less important is that fact that the weather in Thailand is quite pleasant even during the low season. The temperatures’ difference between the “hot season” and the “peak season” is miniscule, and during the “wet season” one can experience only a mild occasional rain. Therefore, in Thailand one can lower accommodation costs by avoiding the peak season without paying the price of suffering from unbearable cold or coping with endless monsoon.

2. Transportation. Getting from Bangkok to your final destination in one of the Southern Islands by train or bus instead of by plane can save you up to 80$ each way. You can save a bundle if you arrive to Bangkok International Airport in the evening. In this case you save, besides the gap between relatively expensive airfare and train or bus ticket, the first night’s accommodation cost as well (40$ - 100$ per bungalow per night in high standard - not luxury - accommodation).

3. Food. In Western style countries, the more you pay for your dinner the better it is, so everyone can make a personal decision about getting an appropriate cost - benefit balance. In Thailand, and especially in the Southern Islands it is much simpler: in most cases, the cheaper the better. Expensive restaurants in Thailand Islands usually specialize on Western food that is neither authentic nor of superior taste; a standard dinner will cost you 10$ - 30$ in a restaurant of this kind. Alternatively, the dinner in a cheap restaurant with plastic chairs will cost you 3$ - 8$ and it is usually both tasty and authentic. My most disappointing Thai dinner was served in a fancy restaurant in Bangkok and had cost 120$ for a couple, whereas my best dinner was served in a cheap family restaurant in Koh Phangan. The owner - young mom named Mam - prepared the meal for us exactly as we wished it would be and charged us with measly 5-6$ per person.

4. Air Conditioning. The presence of air conditioning in your room can make a huge difference in accommodation rates. For example, the same room rates in the same resort can vary from 15$-30$ for a bungalow with a fan to 40$ - 100$ for an air-conditioned bungalow. Although choosing an air-conditioned room during the hot season (such as March - April) is crucial, if you visit Southern Thailand during the rainy season - a bungalow with a fan can both satisfy your needs and cut your expenses in more than a half.

5. Location choice. Similar to the principle held in most places in the world, the accommodation rates in Thailand Islands depend on your location choice. The bungalow in the central beach, close to the airport or seaport full of thriving nightlife will probably be twice as expensive as the same bungalow in a remote quiet beach. However, accessibility is an issue in the Thailand Islands, and the taxi fares and taxi boat fares operate under the same principal as the accommodation rates. So there is a rule you may adopt: if you are looking for social activities and busy nightlife- stay close to the airport or seaport; otherwise make a little effort and move after your arrival to a remote beach. You will save up to 60% on the accommodation rates this way.

6. Communication. It will probably not come as a complete shock, but the use of cellular phone from outside of Thailand could be extremely expensive. To save on communication costs you can either buy a local cellular phone with prepaid SIM card or use the Telephone & Internet centers services. Mind you that the cost of these services may vary. As usual, if you’re calling overseas from your resort’s office - it will be more expensive than using a call center in the town. The cheapest solution is probably giving your phone number to your friends or relatives overseas since every call center has a phone number that can be used for calling back.

7. Price negotiation. In tourist locations in Thailand negotiation is a necessity or a way of life. Likewise, in the less touristy islands and areas price bargaining is accepted as well. Just try it - in Thailand price negotiation isn’t considered an embarrassing behavior, so you have nothing to lose.

8. Psychology. Although, in Thailand everything is perceived to be cheaper than in your home country, don’t be fooled by the seemingly low prices and control your expenses. Buying an enormous amount of inexpensive things can really add up to a surprisingly large sum of money.

During my last visit to Thailand, I followed these guidelines with persistence and I was happy to disclose, that budget travel in Thailand can be more than just an economical issue, it can also be enjoyable. Interestingly enough, in Thailand, the less you spend - the closer you get to the local authentic experience.

Independent researcher, MA in anthropology, and travel enthusiast Ella Evans has spend more than a decade exploring Thailand focusing on the Southern Islands. The fruits of her labor can be found in the Koh Phangan Experience Website: a comprehensive travel guide to Koh Phangan, Thailand, which includes information articles, tips, advice and a message board. To visit Koh Phangan Experience Guide, click here: http://www.kohphangan.eternaltravel.net/

Tags: Budget Travel, thailand, Thailand Islands, Travel to ThailandBudget Travel, thailand, Thailand Islands, Travel to Thailand

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2006 coup - The political mood

Bangkok in the April summer heat was seething with political agitation. Earlier in the year, the PM Taksin Shinawatra sold his entire holdings in Shin Corp to Temasek, the Singapore government investment company.

Shin Corp owned the major cell phone operator in Thailand, a satellite, a TV station, a domestic budget airline and a property company. There are strict limits on foreign ownership of telecommunications and local airlines in Thailand. The sale caused a national uproar.

To make matters worse, the law governing limits on foreign holdings of such industries was raised from 20% to 49% just a day before the deal was announced.

The deal netted a tax-free sum of 73 billion baht (US$1.95 bn) and rankled ordinary tax payers. In the raging emotions, it mattered little that Thailand had no capital gains tax.

For a government facing accusations of corruption and nepotism, aggravated by the abrasive and autocratic Taksin, this deal was the last straw. This contentious issue in early 2006 sparked the chain of events that led to the 2006 coup later in September.

In the April snap elections, that was boycotted by the opposition, the ruling party won again. This election was later nullified by the Constitutional Court as parties were paid to put up token opposition. Fresh elections were set for October 2006.

By July, conflict between the pro and anti Taksin camps was getting increasingly acrimonious. Taksin won’t resign and his critics can’t get him out. This impasse and the daily bickering paralyzed the caretaker government.

2006 coup - Conflicts with the military

To add fuel to fire, Taksin tried to influence the annual army promotions list, a prerogative jealously guarded by the military. His move was seen as an attempt to promote the Class 10 officers (his classmates in military academy) over their seniors.

In August, the army was accused of an assassination attempt with a car bomb near the PM’s residence. The sacking of a general, investigations and arrest of officers pushed the situation closer to the brink.

2006 coup - The pre-coup planning and preparations

The first tactical move in the 2006 coup was made two months earlier in July. Several Class 10 officers holding battalion commands were transferred to non-combat positions. This move weakened the Taksin loyalists.

In a distant base to the north, soldiers sensed a coup two weeks before when they were ordered to wash the M41 tanks and support vehicles, fit auxiliary weapons and vehicle accessories. This was done in small batches of vehicles under the cover of routine maintenance.

A day before, all vehicles were given a complete change of oils and lubricants. With the arrival of tank transporters, the big move was on.

2006 coup - The forces deployed

The forces deployed for the 2006 coup were:

• The Special Forces from the Special Warfare Center in Loburi 100 km north of Bangkok. (General Sonthi the army chief is a Red Beret.)
• The 1st Army in Bangkok.
• The 2nd Army based in the north-east.
• The 3rd Army based in the north.

19 September 2006 coup - The execution

On that fateful day of the 19th, the PM Taksin was in New York scheduled to address the United Nations General Assembly.

At 1900 hours, 10 bus loads of fully armed and equipped Special Forces troops from Lopburi entered Bangkok. That was the trigger point. The 2006 coup had been set in motion.

From 2130 - 2230 hours, normal TV programs started to go off the air channel by channel, replaced by royal music and films. That set Bangkok buzzing. Troops were occupying all the TV stations, the key targets in any coup.

Taksin must have got wind of the coup because he tried to announce a state of emergency and the arrest of the army chief via satellite. Only one station, Channel 9, agreed to air this a little after 2200 hours. But this was stopped minutes later.

By the time CNN broke the news of the 2006 coup to the world at 2200 hours, tanks and troops were fully deployed in the city. Government House, the seat of power, was seized. Troops secured key junctions in the city, manning checkpoints and checking traffic.

At 2300 hours the coup was officially announced. The statement, made at regular intervals, ended with an apology to the public for the inconvenience caused!

By midnight, CNN and BBC transmissions were blacked out. Local TV announced the suspension of the 1997 constitution, the Constitutional Court, both houses of Parliament and Cabinet.

2006 coup - The day after

On the morning of 20 September 2006, more troops and tanks were seen entering Bangkok along the Vipavadi-Rangsit Highway. These were the reinforcements from units outside Bangkok.

The coup leaders were tightening their grip on the city making any counter-measure near impossible.

Martial law was imposed. Public demonstrations and assemblies of more that five persons were banned. The military council promised to hand over to an interim government in two weeks.

Four ex-ministers deemed close to the deposed premier were ordered to report to Army Headquarters. They remained in military custody.

2006 coup - The coup of roses

Actually it wasn’t as drastic as it appeared. The 2006 coup in Bangkok was, in many ways, a coup of contradictions.

Some have described it as an undemocratic use of force to overthrow a democratically elected government that has systematically subverted the democratic institutions in the country.

Even the original name adopted by the coup leaders was shrouded in respectability, the Council for Democratic Reform under a Constitutional Monarchy.

For every Thai who despised Taksin, another supported him. For a nation weary from the seemingly endless political deadlock, the coup might even be a welcomed relief or last resort.

A Thai journalist noted wryly that the troops were showered with roses and not bricks. Indeed the public response to the troops from the onset was warm and friendly. So was the behavior of the troops towards the people.

The morning after the 2006 coup, children were clamoring on an armored personnel carrier as if it were some playground equipment. Soldiers chatted merrily with foreigners and Thais alike. It transpired a few days later that they were under strict orders to keep on smiling!

As the days past, yellow roses adorn tanks. People offered soldiers food and water. These gifts turned out to be more than just token offerings. By the end of September, it was reported that the army was running low on funds for food and fuel for the troops.

(The Thai budget year starts on 1 October each year. In the political turmoil, no new budget was passed.)

Snapping photos with troops in the 2006 coup was popular. Like the young lady cheekily pointing a rifle at a soldier with his hands up in mock surrender (the M16 assault rifles carried by the troops were not loaded). Or the bridal couple, who had their wedding photo with a military guard of honor and tank.

When a local radio station sponsored a troupe of bare midriff dancers in skin tight costumes to entertain the troops, that was the limit. The army banned further displays of such frivolity. Soldiers also were prohibited to allow members of the public to handle weapons.

These scenes gave a measure of the mood of the day.

2006 coup - The aftermath

On 1 October 2006, General Surayud Chulanont, ex-Privy Councilor and ex-chief of army, was appointed the 24th Prime Minister of Thailand.

On the same day, the troops started their withdrawal from the city. The military council promulgated an interim charter appointing themselves the Council for National Security with powers to appoint and sack the PM and the government.

Taksin flew from New York to London and is still there with his family.

The four ex-Ministers who were arrested were released on the day the interim PM was appointed.

The managing director of TV channel 9, the only channel to broadcast Taksin’s declaration of emergency, resigned shortly after the coup.

The people await fresh elections in a year’s time and a new constitution, the 17th in 74 years of constitutional government.

We can only hope that this constitution will last longer than the last one. It’s anyone’s guess if the 2006 coup will be the last.

For a history of the other coups in Bangkok.

2006 coup in Bangkok is the latest article in Tour Bangkok Legacies a historical travel site on people, places and events that left their mark in the landscape of Bangkok.

The author Eric Lim, a free-lance writer, lives in Bangkok Thailand.

Tags: 2006 coup, Bangkok coup, coup detat, military coup, Taksin Shinawatra, Thailand coup2006 coup, Bangkok coup, coup detat, military coup, Taksin Shinawatra, Thailand coup

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